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Personal Care Products Formulated With Vegetable-Based Specialty Gellant Polyamides

IP.com Disclosure Number: IPCOM000168883D
Publication Date: 2008-Apr-02

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The IP.com Prior Art Database

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Dr. K. T. Griffin Lai: AUTHOR

Abstract

Certain polymerized fatty acid-based, low molecular weight, specialty gellant polyamides are novel products for the formulation of personal care products. These skin-friendly, easy-to-incorporate polymers turn almost any liquid into a clear solid or gel, allow formation of emulsions with little or no surfactant, are compatible with many cosmetic active ingredients, wet pigments, and provide enhanced gloss. Such polyamide gellants can be lipophilic and therefore water-repellant or hydrophilic and therefore water-dispersible or water-soluble. Gellant-based skin care formulations allow ready formulation of acidic actives, especially the anti-age compound glycolic acid and anti-acne compound salicylic acid, without pH adjustment, accommodate silicone oils, waxes, and other skin feel agents, can tolerate changes in texture and rheology with common thickener/stabilizers and are stable to changes in pH and salt content. Herein are provided a variety of stable, homogeneous, and skin-friendly personal care cream/lotion product formulations.

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PERSONAL CARE PRODUCTS FORMULATED WITH

VEGETABLE-BASED SPECIALTY POLYAMIDES

Date:      

April 1, 2008

Authors: E. Kelderman, K. T. G. Lai and M. S. Pavlin, Arizona Chemical Company

              C. Graizeau and Anne-Sophie Gardes, Jan Dekker International

SUMMARY

Certain polymerized fatty acid-based, low molecular weight, specialty polyamides are novel products for the formulation of personal care products. These skin-friendly, easy-to-incorporate polymers turn almost any liquid into a clear solid or gel, allow formation of emulsions with little or no surfactant, are compatible with many cosmetic active ingredients, wet pigments, and provide enhanced gloss. Such polyamide gellants can be lipophilic and therefore water-repellant or hydrophilic and therefore water-dispersible or water-soluble. Gellant-based skin care formulations allow ready formulation of acidic actives, especially the anti-age compound glycolic acid and anti-acne compound salicylic acid, without pH adjustment, accommodate silicone oils, waxes, and other skin feel agents, can tolerate changes in texture and rheology with common polyacrylate thickener/stabilizers and are stable to changes in pH and salt content. Herein are provided a variety of representative homogeneous, stable, and skin-friendly personal care cream/lotion product formulations.

 

BACKGROUND

The human body is replete with polymers that belong to a general class called polyamides. A polymer is a molecule consisting of a long, usually linear chain of many small “building blocks” connected by a “linking” group. A polyamide is such a molecule in which the “link” in the chain is an amide group, drawn as: --C(=O)-NH--. Enzymes, collagen (skin, connective tissue, bone), hair, elastin, and ceramides are examples of important biological structures that are built of polyamides commonly known as proteins. Figure 1 shows a generalized structure of a simple polyamide.

Figure 1. Structure of a Simple Polyamide

 “X” in Figure 1 is an integer denoting how many blocks (repeat units) are in the polyamide chain. The bigger the value of “X”, the longer is the polymer chain (i.e. the higher the molecular weight). Biopolymers are typically very large but small molecules play important biological roles as well. The “terminal block” is whatever moiety occupies each end of the chain. It could be an un-reacted acid or amine group or it could be a special group placed there to stop polymer growth and therefore limit molecular weight.  For small molecules, the terminal group will make an important contribution to the material’s properties but as the molecular size increases, the influence of the terminal group on properties of the polymer diminishes.

Figure 2 shows a generalized structure of a polyamide built from more than one building block, wherein X, Y, and Z c...