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New Cosmetic Ingredients Based on Metathesized Soybean Oil

IP.com Disclosure Number: IPCOM000199570D
Publication Date: 2010-Sep-09
Document File: 11 page(s) / 37K

Publishing Venue

The IP.com Prior Art Database

Related People

Michael Starch: AUTHOR [+2]

Related Documents

IPCOM000154102D: IP.COM

Abstract

Metathesis and hydrogenation have been used to produce useful cosmetic ingredients from natural triglyceride oils. One such ingredient is a wax produced from soybean oil that was the subject of a previous disclosure (IPCOM000154102D). This wax is available commercially from Dow Corning Corporation as Dow Corning® HY-3050 Soy Wax. It has been discovered that further chemical transformation of HY-3050 produces new cosmetic waxes that provide different benefits in cosmetic formulations. Reaction of HY-3050 with ethylene diamine introduces amide functionality and increases the hardness of the HY-3050 Soy Wax. This new amide wax has better structuring properties in formulations compared to HY-3050. When HY-3050 is reacted with diethanolamine, this increases the polarity of the wax such that is easily dispersible in hot water and forms stable emulsions upon cooling. The new polar wax can be used to emulsify a wide range of cosmetic oils and also provides a thickening effect in aqueous formulations.

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New Cosmetic Ingredients Based on Metathesized Soybean Oil

Michael Starch, Brain Swanton, and Kim Quackenbush

Dow Corning Corporation, Midland, Michigan

Introduction

Metathesis and hydrogenation have been used to produce useful cosmetic ingredients from natural triglyceride oils.  One such ingredient is a wax produced from soybean oil that was the subject of a previous disclosure (IPCOM000154102D) that was published in June of 2007.  This wax is available commercially from Dow Corning Corporation as Dow Corning® HY-3050 Soy Wax.  It has been discovered that further chemical transformation of HY-3050 produces new cosmetic waxes that provide different benefits in cosmetic formulations. 

Reaction of HY-3050 with ethylene diamine introduces amide functionality and increases the hardness of the HY-3050 Soy Wax.  We intend to market this harder wax under the product code HY-3150.  This new amide wax has better structuring properties in formulations compared to HY-3050. 

When HY-3050 is reacted with diethanolamine, this increases the polarity of the wax such that is easily dispersible in hot water and forms stable emulsions upon cooling.  The new polar wax can be used to emulsify a wide range of cosmetic oils and also provides a thickening effect in aqueous formulations.  We intend to market this harder wax under the product code HY-3200.

The use of HY-3150 as a structuring agent in anhydrous formulations

When dispersed into cosmetic oils, the amide wax provides a structuring effect.  Structuring in this context refers the ability of a wax to partially or fully solidify a mixture of oils.  Structurants are used to make products such as lipsticks or antiperspirant sticks.  The structuring performance of amide wax was tested by making the following formulation.  Several different waxes (“test wax” in the formulation below) were included in the formulation to determine the effect on hardness:

  Pigment Stick

Ingredient

Wt %

Cetearyl Alcohol

17.0

Phenyl Trimethicone

15.0

Test Wax

5.0

Cyclopentasiloxane

38.0

Pigment Blend (mixture of titanium dioxide and iron oxides to give desired color)

25.0

 

100.0

 


Procedure: Heat the first three ingredients in a mixing vessel that is large enough to hold the entire batch.  Heat to 70-80o C and gently mix until the cetearyl alcohol and test wax have melted.  In a separate mixing vessel, disperse the pigment blend into the cyclopentasiloxane.  Blend the pigment dispersion into the hot wax mixture and maintain heating to prevent solidification of the wax.  As soon as all of the pigment dispersion has been added, begin cooling and pour into suitable molds before the formulation hardens.

A Texture Analyzer, model TA XT Plus, manufactured by Stable Micro Systems was used to test the hardness of the formulations.  This instrument has a movable arm equipped with force sensors that is programmed to push a probe into the sample and record the resistance to penetration as the probe is pushed into the sampl...