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Nature-Based Specialty Polyamides for Personal Care

IP.com Disclosure Number: IPCOM000217785D
Publication Date: 2012-May-11
Document File: 4 page(s) / 468K

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Abstract

These skin-friendly, easy-to-incorporate polymers turn almost any liquid into a clear solid, allow formation fo emulsions with little or no surfactant, and are compatible with many cosmetic active ingredients, wet pigments and provide enhanced gloss.

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 Nature-Based Specialty Polyamides for Personal Care

These skin-friendly, easy-to-incorporate polymers turn almost any liquid into a clear solid, allow formation of emulsions with little or no surfactant, are compatible with

many cosmetic active ingredients, wet pigments and provide enhanced gloss.

Dr. Mark S. Pavlin, Dr. K. T. Griffin Lai, Dr. M. David Peterson

Arizona Chemical Company Jacksonville, FL

Dr. Shyam Gupta

Bioderm Research Scottsdale, AZ


T HE HUMAN BODY is replete with polymers that belong to a general class called polyamides. Enzymes, colla- gen (skin, connective tissue, bone), hair and elastin are examples of important bio- logical structures that are built of polyamides com-

monly known as proteins.

 Figure 1 shows a generalized struc- ture of a polyamide built from more than one building block, wherein X, Y and Z can be any positive integer (which need not have the same value) and the "blocks" can occur in any sequence, although the amide group "link" is always the same. The "termi- nator" is whatever moiety occupies each end of the chain, usually a special group placed there to control polymer growth and therefore molecular weight. For small molecules, the termi- nator makes an important contribution to the material's properties but as the molecular size increases, the influence of the termini on polymer properties diminishes. Biopolymers are typically very large but small molecules, such as ceramides, play important biological roles as well. A protein is a polyamide in which each "building block" is derived from an amino acid. There are 20 biologically important amino acids providing 20 different "building block" options used any number of times, which explains the enormous variety and complexity of proteins found in nature.

Polyamides in Personal Care

A decade ago, few polyamide ingredi- ents were available for formulating personal care products other than sim- ple Nylon 6 or Nylon 12 powders. Beginning in 1996, this situation changed with the introduction of fatty acid-based polyamides that could pro- vide structure to antiperspirant formu- lations.1 More dramatically, when spe- cially modified, this same type of polyamide could structure a wide vari- ety of emollient oils2,3 and blends of emollients and low-HLB surfactants.4 The introduction of silicone-based polyamides useful for gelling silicone and other oils occurred in the same period.5 This family of novel and useful ingredients for formulating and improving personal care products con- tinues to grow in breadth and interest with their preparation in emulsion form5,6 and their use in structuring polar media such as glycols and blends of glycols and water.7,8

 Arizona Chemical currently offers the most often cited of these specialty polyamide ingredients (Table A). All are vegetable oil-based organic liquid structurants (also referred to as "gel- lants") with unusual performance prop- erties and multi-functional benefits. Some are water-repellant, some are...