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Color cosmetics without unnatural white appearance

IP.com Disclosure Number: IPCOM000241071D
Publication Date: 2015-Mar-24
Document File: 5 page(s) / 162K

Publishing Venue

The IP.com Prior Art Database

Abstract

The purpose of this work was to evaluate the formulation possibilities with silicone having high refractive index; Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane (Product name; Dow Corning® PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid). The compositions of this silicone fluid and its use in Personal Care have been described in patent WO2011081218. Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane has been formulated in color cosmetic to enhance glossy appearance thanks to its high refractive index (1.58). In this study, some additional benefits of this silicone fluid were found: - Reducing whitening in sunscreen formulation - Improve the natural appearance in foundation formulation - Increase the blurring effect for reducing the appearance of wrinkles and pore sizes in skin care application.

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Title

Color cosmetics without unnatural white appearance

Author

Yasue Kanzaki, Dow Corning Toray Co., Ltd. Japan

Jun Miyano, Dow Corning Toray Co., Ltd. Japan

Abstract

The purpose of this work was to evaluate the formulation possibilities with silicone having high refractive index; Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane (Product name; Dow Corning® PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid). The compositions of this silicone fluid and its use in Personal Care have been described in patent WO2011081218.

Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane has been formulated in color cosmetic to enhance glossy appearance thanks to its high refractive index (1.58). In this study, some additional benefits of this silicone fluid were found:

-       Reducing whitening in sunscreen formulation

-       Improve the natural appearance in foundation formulation

-       Increase the blurring effect for reducing the appearance of wrinkles and pore sizes in skin care application.

Introduction

Silicone fluid has been used around for more than 30 years and became very popular in skin care products thanks to the non-tacky sensory feel (they were providing to the consumer). Dow Corning® 556 Cosmetic Fluid was developed to provide compatibility improvement and to enhance the glossy appearance in hair care and skin care application but its glossy performance was not sufficient. PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid was found to achieve the best balance between the ability to add gloss and non-tacky sensory feel. The purpose of this work was to evaluate the formulations possibilities using PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid as well as the possible combinations with a broad range of cosmetic ingredients covering all types of applications such as sunscreen, foundations and skin cream.

Results and Discussion

Product Names

INCI Name

Dow Corning® PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid

Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane

Dow Corning® 556 Cosmetic Fluid

Phenyltrimethicone

XIAMETER® PMX-200 SIL FLUID 100CS

Dimethicone

XIAMETER® PMX-200 SIL FLUID 5CS

Dimethicone

Dow Corning® EP-9215 Cosmetic Powder

Dimethicone/Vinyldimethicone Crosspolymer

Dow Corning® RM 2051 Thickening Agent

Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Dimethicone (and) Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Trideceth-6 (and) PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone

Formulation 1. Simple mixture of titanium dioxide and PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid

This is a simple formulation combiningf PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid with titanium dioxide.

Titanium dioxide is well known as UV filter and pigment for foundation and RI is around 2.7.

The bottom picture shows appearance of the mixture of some silicone fluid and titanium dioxide on skin.

RI of each silicone fluid is 1.3(200 Fluid), 1.46(556 Fluid) and 1.58(PH-1555 Fluid) with the difference with the TiO2 RI being respectively 1.3, 1.24 and 1.12.

The right sample containing PH-1555 has the lower white residue resulting from the smaller difference in RI values between the fluid and the titanium dioxide.

A minimal white residue is a very important feature for sunscreen and foundation as it give...