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Use Of Methyl Glucoside Derivatives In Cosmetic Compositions For The Formation Of Liquid Crystal Structures Improving Moisturization And Active Penetration

IP.com Disclosure Number: IPCOM000242206D
Publication Date: 2015-Jun-25
Document File: 9 page(s) / 513K

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The IP.com Prior Art Database

Related People

Laurent Blasco: AUTHOR [+3]

Abstract

This publication relates to Methyl Glucose-based emulsifiers Glucate™ SS emulsifier (Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.) and Glucamate™ SSE-20 emulsifier (Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.), composition comprising such Methyl Glucose-based emulsifiers and their application in personal care compositions containing liquid crystals structures. The formation of liquid crystals structures in emulsion is known to provide the enhancement of the stability, and high skin compatibility to cosmetic formulations. To enhance the formation and the stability of liquid crystals in emulsion, Glucate™ SS emulsifier and Glucamate™ SSE-20 emulsifier are used in a suitable ratio and combined with a fatty alcohol, in particular with Behenyl Alcohol. Glucate™ SS emulsifier acts as a Liquid Crystals network builder in the external phase to build and stabilize liquid crystals in emulsion, while Glucamate™ SSE-20 emulsifier helps to orient liquid crystals and strengthen O/W interface to avoid coalescence by the formation of multi-layer around oil droplets. Optimum HLB for Glucate™ SS and Glucamate™ SSE-20 emulsifiers was found to be between 7 and 9. The combination with Behenyl Alcohol, Carbopol® Ultrez 20 polymer (Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.) and a mix of Glycerin, Propylene Glycol and Glucam™ E-20 Humectant (Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.) in a ratio of (5:5:2), will result to an optimal liquid crystals emulsion with long-term self-life, viscosity and temperature stability. Glucate™ SS and Glucamate™ SSE-20 emulsifiers are very mild and natural derived methyl glucose esters. Their particular structures offer a better water-holding capacity for moisturizing enhancement, as well as an excellent compatibility with the physical barriers of the skin demonstrated by mean of FTIR/corneometer measurement, TEWL measurement and permeation tests. They are also compatible with sunscreens, and a wide range of compounds that offer a high formulation flexibility.

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USE OF METHYL GLUCOSIDE DERIVATIVES IN COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS FOR THE FORMATION OF LIQUID CRYSTAL STRUCTURES IMPROVING MOISTURIZATION AND ACTIVE PENETRATION

Marine Vincendet, Juan Cebrian and Laurent Blasco.

Abstract:

This publication relates to Methyl Glucose-based emulsifiers Glucate™ SS emulsifier (Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.) and Glucamate™ SSE-20 emulsifier (Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.), composition comprising such Methyl Glucose-based emulsifiers and their application in personal care compositions containing liquid crystals structures. The formation of liquid crystals structures in emulsion is known to provide the enhancement of the stability, and high skin compatibility to cosmetic formulations. To enhance the formation and the stability of liquid crystals in emulsion, Glucate™ SS emulsifier and Glucamate™ SSE-20 emulsifier are used in a suitable ratio and combined with a fatty alcohol, in particular with Behenyl Alcohol. Glucate™ SS emulsifier acts as a Liquid Crystals network builder in the external phase to build and stabilize liquid crystals in emulsion, while Glucamate™ SSE-20 emulsifier helps to orient liquid crystals and strengthen O/W interface to avoid coalescence by the formation of multi-layer around oil droplets. Optimum HLB for Glucate™ SS and Glucamate™ SSE-20 emulsifiers was found to be between 7 and 9. The combination with Behenyl Alcohol, Carbopol® Ultrez 20 polymer (Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.) and a mix of Glycerin, Propylene Glycol and Glucam™ E-20 Humectant (Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.) in a ratio of (5:5:2), will result to an optimal liquid crystals emulsion with long-term self- life, viscosity and temperature stability. Glucate™ SS and Glucamate™ SSE-20 emulsifiers are very mild and natural derived methyl glucose esters. Their particular structures offer a better water-holding capacity for moisturizing enhancement, as well as an excellent compatibility with the physical barriers of the skin demonstrated by mean of FTIR/corneometer measurement, TEWL measurement and permeation tests. They are also compatible with sunscreens, and a wide range of compounds that offer a high formulation flexibility.

Key words: Liquid crystal emulsions, Methyl glucose sesquistearate, PEG-20 Methyl Glucose sesquistearate, moisturization, active penetration.

INTRODUCTION

     A large part of cosmetic products are made in the form of emulsions, a form that allows the simultaneous use of lipophilic and hydrophilic ingredients in the required dosage. A product in the form of an emulsion also has the advantage of having the most convenient appearance and texture that facilitates its application. They can be formulated to be liquid, milk type emulsion of variable consistency, creams or even sprayable emulsions. Finally, an emulsion is the best carrier for active ingredients and functional substances as UV filters.

     Cosmetic emulsions are thermodynamically instable systems and follow the cla...