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PREPARATION OF A W/O EMULSION LIPSTICK WITH AN AUTOEMULSIFYING POLYURETHANE

IP.com Disclosure Number: IPCOM000244887D
Publication Date: 2016-Jan-26
Document File: 4 page(s) / 936K

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Laure Dupin, Juan Cebrian: AUTHOR

Abstract

This technology relates to the use of Polyurethane-62 and Trideceth-6 (Avalure™ Flex-6 Polymer, by Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.) for the preparation of a W/O emulsion Lipstick. The technology permits the use of water in lipstick formulations allowing for the incorporation of water soluble ingredients in a very traditional low-water formulation. With the inclusion of just a low amount of Polyurethane-62 and Trideceth-6 no additional surfactants are needed to achieve the benefits of traditional emulsions. Polyurethane-62 and Trideceth-6 provides emulsion stabilization, pigment dispersion, film formation and rheology modification, along with a variety of other properties.

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PREPARATION OF A W/O EMULSION LIPSTICK WITH AN AUTOEMULSIFYING POLYURETHANE

Laure Dupin and Juan Cebrián

Europe Skin Care Applications Department, Lubrizol

Abstract:

This technology relates to the use of Polyurethane-62 and Trideceth-6 (Avalure™ Flex-6 Polymer, by Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.) for the preparation of a W/O emulsion Lipstick. The technology permits the use of water in lipstick formulations allowing for the incorporation of water soluble ingredients in a very traditional low-water formulation. With the inclusion of just a low amount of Polyurethane-62 and Trideceth-6 no additional surfactants are needed to achieve the benefits of traditional emulsions. Polyurethane-62 and Trideceth-6 provides emulsion stabilization, pigment dispersion, film formation and rheology modification, along with a variety of other properties.

Key words: W/O emulsions, make-up, lipsticks, polyurethane-62, trideceth-6, SEM microscopy

INTRODUCTION

Make-up is one of the most important segments in the cosmetic industry. This segment includes lip care, nail polish, blush, eyeshadow, foundation, mascaras, etc. One of the most popular products are the lipsticks, a cosmetic formulation containing pigments, oils, waxes and emollients to apply color, texture and protection to the lips. Wax (beeswax, candelilla, carnauba, etc.) provides the solid structure to the lipstick, pigments and dyes (D&C Red 21, D&C Red 7, etc.) provide the color, while emollients (isobutene, lanolin, petrolatum, etc.) provide texture, gloss and protection.

Lipsticks must convey color and long lasting gloss to the lips. These parameters change season to season depending on the fashion trends in vogue. Lipsticks must be solid enough at room temperature in order to be applied uniformly to the lips without breaking or deforming. The formulation must be homogeneous in color and texture, easy to apply and form a long lasting, non-sticky, transfer resistant film on the lips. Additionally, lipsticks must not taste bad, must be self-lubricating and must have good dermocompatibiliy.

Most of the existing lipstick formulations are completely anhydrous, so the addition of water soluble ingredients which can provide additional benefits to a lipstick are limited. Emulsion technology could be an interesting approach for the incorporation of water in lipstick formulations. The addition of water could allow for the combination of interesting


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water soluble actives like anti-wrinkle peptides, hyaluronic acid, collagen boosters, moisturizers, etc.

A large variety of cosmetic products are formulated as emulsions, a formulation that allows the simultaneous use of lipophilic and hydrophilic ingredients in the required dosage. A product formulated as an emulsion also has the advantage of having a rich appearance and texture and facilitates uniform application. Such products can be formulated to be liquid, a milk type emulsion of variable consistency, creams or even sprayable for...