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PREPARATION OF A O/W MILD BLACK MASCARA FOR SENSITIVE AREAS

IP.com Disclosure Number: IPCOM000246454D
Publication Date: 2016-Jun-08
Document File: 5 page(s) / 224K

Publishing Venue

The IP.com Prior Art Database

Related People

Laure Dupin, Marine Vincendet and Juan Cebrián: AUTHOR

Abstract

The technology relates to the use of Polyurethane-62 and Trideceth-6 (Avalure™ Flex-6 Polymer, by Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.) and the Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate (Glucate™ SS Emulsifier), PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate (Glucamate™ SSE-20 Emulsifier) emulsifier pair, for the preparation of a mild black mascara for sensitive areas.

This text was extracted from a PDF file.
This is the abbreviated version, containing approximately 41% of the total text.

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PREPARATION OF A O/W MILD BLACK MASCARA FOR SENSITIVE AREAS

Authors: Laure Dupin, Marine Vincendet and Juan Cebrián

Europe Skin Care Applications Department, Lubrizol

Abstract:

The technology relates to the use of Polyurethane-62 and Trideceth-6 (Avalure™ Flex-6 Polymer, by Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.) and the Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate (Glucate™ SS Emulsifier), PEG-
20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate (Glucamate™ SSE-20 Emulsifier) emulsifier pair, for the preparation of a mild black mascara for sensitive areas.

Key words: O/W emulsions, make-up, color cosmetics, polyurethane-62, trideceth-6, Glucate™ SS Emulsifier, Glucamate™ SSE-20 Emulsifier, gentle, soap-free mascara.

INTRODUCTION

     Make-up is one of the most important segments in the cosmetic industry. This segment covers three main areas: facial Cosmetics, Eye Cosmetics and Lip Cosmetics including lip care, nail polish, blush, eyeshadow, foundation, mascaras, etc. Facial cosmetics is the dominating market, but eye makeup is having the higher growth in the last two years (Source: Mintel Color Cosmetics - US- July 2015). The most popular product category in the eye segment are the mascaras sub-category, followed by eye liner, eye shadows, eyebrow pencils, eyebrow make-up and false eye lashes sub-categories. The leading region for new commercial launches of mascaras is Europe, followed by Asia Pacific, North America and Latin America.

Mascaras are cosmetic formulations containing pigments, oils, waxes, surfactants and emollients to apply color, texture and protection to the lashes. They can be O/W emulsions or anhydrous formulations. Their viscosity and rheology behavior is really important as they will determine the type of application and the performances. Moreover, the product has to fit to the packaging in order to enable the perfect synergy between the colored paste and the applicator brush, and to provide best performance.

The main claims of mascaras are Ophthalmologically Tested, Time/Speed, Long Lasting, Waterproof, ease of use, seasonal, Botanical/Herbal, Ethical-Animal, Brightening-Illuminating and Vitamin/Mineral Fortified (Source: Mintel GNPD). The claim Ophthalmologically tested is the most used claim in the global mascara launches because some of the mascara formulations on the market are containing soap-based surfactants, like stearic acid neutralized with Triethanolamine, which make them irritant for eyes. Additionally, soap- based emulsifying system can lead to a less intense grey color, with a whiter impact on the dark tone of the lashes, during the crystallization step.


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DETAILS OF THE TECHNOLOGY

This technology relates the design of a mascara formula that is less aggressive towards the eye, without the whitening effect of the classic soap-based surfactants. Glucamate™ SSE-20 and Glucate™ SS emulsifiers are combined with Avalure™ Flex-6 polymer to emulsify high levels of waxes and pigments with a lower irritation profile...