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Hair styling mousse formulations with performance benefits

IP.com Disclosure Number: IPCOM000249652D
Publication Date: 2017-Mar-14
Document File: 5 page(s) / 228K

Publishing Venue

The IP.com Prior Art Database

Abstract

Hair styling mousses can contain either one or more setting polymers (cationic, non-ionic, anionic) to obtain an appropriate styling performance. This performance is represented by bending stiffness and curl retention. In addition to that further performance benefits can be achieved by combining different styling polymers as well as using active ingredients, e.g. micro proteins.

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Hair styling mousse formulations with performance benefits

Hair styling mousses can contain either one or more setting polymers (cationic, non-ionic, anionic)

to obtain an appropriate styling performance. This performance is represented by bending stiffness

and curl retention.

In addition to that further performance benefits can be achieved by combining different styling

polymers as well as using active ingredients, e.g. micro proteins.

The following formulation examples show those performance benefits:

Table 1: Formulation 1

INCI Product name wt%

Aqua 82.10

Polyquaternium-68 Luviquat® Supreme AT 1 7.50

Polyquaternium-11 Luviquat® PQ 11 AT 1 7.50

Ceteareth-25 Eumulgin® B 25 0.50

Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein Gluadin® Kera P-LM 2.00

Parfum 0.10

Sodium Benzoate 0.30

Citric Acid qs

Bending Stiffness [21°C; 65% r.h.] ~429 cN

Curl Retention after 24h [20°C; 90% r.h.] ~38.5 %

Table 2: Formulation 2

INCI Product name wt%

Aqua 91.45

Polyquaternium-68 Luviquat® Supreme AT 1 3.75

Acrylates Copolymer Luviflex® Soft 2.50

Aminomethyl Propanol AMP-Ultra PC 2000 (Angus Chemie)

qs

Panthenol D-Panthenol 75 W 0.20

Ceteareth-25 Eumulgin® B 25 0.30

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Eumulgin® CO 40 0.30

Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein Gluadin® Kera P-LM 1.00

Parfum 0.10

Hydroxyethylcellulose Natrosol 250 HR 0.10

Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin Euxyl PE 9010 0.30

Bending Stiffness [21°C; 65% r.h.] ~390 cN

Curl Retention after 24h [20°C; 90% r.h.] ~89.0 %

The pH value of those formulations is between 4.0 and 7.0.

The formulations are filled into appropriate containers and charged with either one of the following

propellants or a mixture in a ration between 90:10 and 96:4 (ratio solution:propellant):

- Propane/Butane 2.7 bar

- Propane/Butane 3.5 bar

- Propane/Butane 4.5 bar

- Isobutane

- n-Butane

- HFC 152a

Additional performance benefits could be found in terms of combing force and suppleness.

1. Dry combability

Dry combing force of the mousse-treated hair strands is determined after volume generation using

a blow dryer and round hair brush. The force needed to comb the hair strand is recorded and either

maximum or mean forces can be evaluated. Ten hair strands per product are used and the combing

procedure is repeated for three times at defined climate conditions (22 °C, 40 % r.h.).

Figure 1 shows dry combing forces of formulation 2 in comparison to water and two benchmarks.

Figure 1: Dry combing forces of different styling mousse formulations

2. Suppleness

Another approach is the determination of suppleness by measuring the force to pull a mousse

treated hair strand through a displaced arrangements of loops after blow drying and combing at

defined climate conditions (22 °C, 40 % r.h.) The lower the mean resistance force the better the

suppleness. Suppleness can also be regarded as mixed parameter of smoothness and flexibility.

Many consumers describe this parameter with terms as ‘ease of fingers through’ or smooth feel’.

Figure 2 shows suppleness of formulation 2 in...